TS 

IG69 
565 


yc-NRLF 


REPORTS 

of  the 

RAW  SILK  CLASSIFICATION  COMMITTEE 

of 
THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA 


Price,  one  dollar 


,  1922, 
ty  THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA 


REPORTS 

of  the 

RAW  SILK  CLASSIFICATION 
COMMITTEE 

.ON-    ;• 

STANDARD     TESTS     FOR     RAW     SILK 
TENTATIVE     STANDARD     TESTS     FOR     RAW     SILK 

TENTATIVE     CLASSIFICATION 
AMERICAN     STANDARD     SILK     SKEIN 


THE   SILK  ASSOCIATION   OF  AMERICA 
354  FOURTH  AVENUE 

NEW   YORK 


e* 

THE  REPORTS  of  the  Raw  Silk  Classification  Committee 
were  submitted  to  the  Board  of  Managers  of  The  Silk  Asso- 
ciation of  America  at  their  meeting  on  September  21,  1921, 
and  received  as  follows: 

RESOLVED,  That  the  Board  of  Managers  of  The  Silk  Asso- 
ciation of  America  in  meeting  assembled  September  21,  1921, 
do  hereby  receive  the  three  reports  of  the  Raw  Silk  Classifi- 
cation Committee  of  the  Association  on  methods  of  testing, 
their  interpretation  and  application,  as  follows: 

I.     Standard  and  Tentative  Standard  Tests 
II.     Tentative  Classification 
III.     Specifications  for  the  Standard  American  Silk  Skein 

and  it  is  further 

RESOLVED,  That  the  Secretary  of  the  Association  be  direct- 
ed to  have  these  reports  printed  and  distributed. 

I,  the  undersigned,  Secretary  of  The  Silk  Association  of 
America,  do  hereby  certify  that  the  above  resolutions  are 
the  true  and  accurate  transcripts  from  the  minutes  of  the 
adjourned  meeting  of  the  regular  meeting  of  the  Board  of 
Managers  of  said  Association  held  in  the  office  of  the  Asso- 
ciation on  the  twenty -first  day  of  September,  1921,  and 
recorded  in  the  minutes  of  said  Association. 

Witness  my  hand  and  the  seal  of  the  Association  this 
twenty -fifth  day  of  January,  1922. 


5        * 

Secretary. 


501653 


LETTER  OE  TRANSMITTAL 

AS    SUBMITTED    BY    THE 

RAW    SILK     CLASSIFICATION 
COMMITTEE 


To  the  Board  of  Managers 

of  The  Silk  Association  of  America: 

Your  Raw  Silk  Classification  Committee,  designated  and 
organized  during  the  Spring  of  1915,  following  the  Essay 
Competition  and  award  of  prizes  in  1914,  wishes  to  submit 
the  following  reports  and  recommendations. 

The  Committee  held  its  first  meeting  June  29,  1915,  and 
began  a  careful  study  of  the  problem  before  it.  A  survey  was 
made  of  laboratories  engaged  in  the  testing  of  silk  and  ad- 
vice and  assistance  was  sought  from  the  technical  men  avail- 
able in  the  New  York  7narkct. 

The  meetings  during  1915  and  1916  revealed  a  very  wide 
divergence  of  opinion  within  the  Committee  regarding  the 
essentials  of  a  system  of  classification.  Aside  from  the  Euro- 
pean methods  of  testing  and  inspection,  numerous  special 
tests  were  being  used.  Naturally,  each  member  considered 
his  methods  the  most  satisfactory  and  was  quite  unwilling  to 
discard  them  without  definite  evidence  to  show  something 
better.  The  intervening  years  have  been  devoted  to  collect- 
ing, compiling  and  interpreting  data,  and  meetings  have  been 
held  to  discuss  progress. 


"  The  L  CoMtmtiiee  is  pleased  to  report  that  its  work  has 
reached  a  point  where  it  seems  advisable  to  submit  recom- 
mendations on: 

STANDARD  TESTS  FOR  RAW   SILK 
TENTATIVE  STANDARD  TESTS  FOR  RAW  SILK 
TENTATIVE    CLASSIFICATION    FOR    ITALIAN,    JAPANESE 

AND   CHINESE   STEAM   FILATURE    (SHANGHAI)    RAW 

SILK 
SPECIFICATIONS  FOR  AMERICAN  STANDARD  SILK  SKEIN 

The  Standard  Tests  for  raw  silk  recommended  are  the 
Winding  Test,  the  Sizing  Test  and  the  American  Sizing  Test 
and  are  sufficiently  in  conformity  with  the  present  testing 
practice  so  as  not  to  be  a  decided  change. 

The  Tentative  Standard  Tests  for  raw  silk  are  recommend- 
ed as  tentative  standards  because  they  are  still  in  the  state 
of  development,  but  are  sufficiently  advanced  to  represent 
the  best  current  laboratory  practice.  They  are  not  involved 
in  the  Rules  and  Regulations  Governing  Transactions  in  Raw 
Silk  and,  therefore,  do  not  affect  sales  contracts  under  the 
rules  of  the  Silk  Association.  These  Tentative  Standard 
Tests  are: 

THE  GAGE  TEST 

THE  SERIMETER  TEST 

THE  SERIGRAPH  TEST 

THE  COHESION  TEST 

The  Tentative  Classification  proposes  four  grades  of  silk 
as  sufficient  to  meet  the  present  needs.  The  specifications  in 
each  grade  are  the  minimum  requirements  which  must  be 
met  for  that  grade.  Raw  silks  which  fail  to  meet  the  re- 
quirements of  the  fourth  or  lowest  grade  will  constitute  a 
group  of  low  quality  silk  not  requiring  classification. 

The  values  specified  for  the  properties  in  each  group  are 
based  upon  large  numbers  of  tests  made  in  the  laboratories 

8 


represented  on  the  Raw  Silk  Classification  Committee,  com- 
piled and  compared  by  the  staff  of  the  United  States  Test- 
ing Company,  Inc.,  and  made  sufficiently  broad  so  as  to  be 
well  within  the  practical  attainment  of  any  well  managed 
filature. 

The  Tentative  Classification,  as  recommended,  represents 
the  best  composite  opinion  that  can  be  secured  in  the  Com- 
mittee at  the  present  time.  It  has  received  the  unanimous 
approval  and  support  of  the  individual  members  and  is 
recommended  for  approval  with  the  understanding  that  as 
the  knowledge  of  the  Committee  upon  testing  of  silk  and 
the  application  of  test  results  increases  and  expands,  this 
Classification  may  be  amended  and  amplified. 

The  American  Standard  Silk  Skein  is  based  fundamentally 
upon  the  present  specification  and  does  not  differ  from  it  in 
any  vital  particulars,  but  so  completely  revises  both  the  form 
and  subject  matter  as  to  constitute  a  new  specification  and 
should  be  adopted  in  that  manner  rather  than  as  an  amend- 
ment to  the  present  one. 

Increased  emphasis  has  been  laid  upon  the  proper  diamond 
formation,  the  elimination  of  gum  spots,  the  skein  weights 
for  various  denier  and  the  proper  lacing  both  as  to  manner 
of  lacing  and  material  used.  Special  figures  illustrating 
these  subjects  have  been  prepared,  and  it  is  believed  that 
they  will  be  more  easily  understood  than  in  the  present 
specification. 

Three  appendices  are  added  and  are  intended  to  assist 
those  striving  to  produce  the  American  Standard  Skein. 

Appendix  A  contains  the  Winding  Test  and  a  tentative 
method  of  classifying  Italian,  Japanese  and  Chinese  (Shang- 
hai) Steam  Filature  Raw  Silk  as  to  its  winding  quality. 

Appendices  B  and  C  describe  the  mechanical  essentials  in 
design  of  reeling  and  re-reeling  machines  for  making  the 


Grant  reeled  skein  and  furnish  diagrams  from  which  very 
simple  and  inexpensive  machines  may  be  constructed  in  lo- 
calities possessing  limited  machine  shop  facilities  and  skill. 

Respectfully  submitted, 
Raw  Silk  Classification  Committee. 

D.  E.  Douty,  Chairman 
Albert  Bosshard 
W.  F.  Edwards 
John  H.  Jewett 
Charles  Muller 
George  A.  Post 
Frederick  Schmutz 
Warren  P.  Seem 
June  10,  1921. 


10 


CONTENTS 

PART  ONE 

PAGE 

STANDARD    TESTS    FOR    11  AW    SILK 15-29 

ARTICLE        I.        GENERAL 15 

ARTICLE       II.        WINDING    TEST 1? 

ARTICLE     III.        SIZING    TEST    (450    METER)     ±2 

ARTICLE     IV.        AMERICAN    SIZING   TEST    (225    METER)  ''21 

PART  TWO 

TENTATIVE    STANDARD    TESTS    FOR    RAW    SILK  33-51 

ARTICLE        I.        GAGE     TEST 33 

ARTICLE      II.        SERIMETER    TEST     FOR    EVENNESS     ...  40 

ARTICLE     III.        SERIGRAPH     TEST      43 

ARTICLE     IV.        COHESION     TEST      48 

PART  THREE 

TENTATIVE    CLASSIFICATION 55-58 

ITALIAN,  JAPANESE  AND  CHINESE  STEAM  FILATURE 
(SHANGHAI)  RAW  SILK,  BASED  UPON  TENTA- 
TIVE STANDARD  TESTS  55 

APPENDIX    A.        COHESION      57 

APPENDIX     B.        WINDING      .  58 


PART  FOUR 

SPECIFICATIONS      FOR      AMERICAN      STANDARD 

SILK    SKEIN 61-71 

APPENDIX  A.  WINDING  OF  THE  AMERICAN  SILK 

SKEIN  65 

APPENDIX  B.  SUGGESTIONS  FOR  REELING  MACHINE 

CONSTRUCTION  AND  USE  65 

APPENDIX  C.  SUGGESTIONS  ON  REREELING  MA- 
CHINE CONSTRUCTION  AND  USE  .  70 


11 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG.  |>AGE 

1.  BOBBIN    FOR    STANDARD    WINDING    TEST     17 

1  A.    SUGGESTED    HOLLOW    ALUMINUM    BOBBIN    FOR   WINDING 

TEST 18 

2.  PIN     SWIFTS      , 18 

(A)  AUTOMATIC    SELF-CENTERING    PIN    HUB    SWIFT 

(B)  TWELVE     STICK,    PIN    HUB     SWIFT, 

3.  LABORATORY    RECORD  WINDING  ^EST 21 

4.  MEASURING     MACHINE      .'.....• 22 

5.  SKEIN    BALANCE    WITH    SPECIAL    PAN 23 

6.  QUADRANT     BALANCE 23 

7.  LABORATORY    RECORD  SIZING    TEST     (450     METER)  .  .  25 

~8.~  LABORATORY   RECORD AMERICAN   SIZING  TEST    (225 

METER)     29 

9.       GAGE      32 

10.    GAGE  REEL  COMPLETE 32 

11-15.    MAJOR    DEFECTS 35 

FIG.  11,  WASTE;  12,  SLUGS;  13,  BAD  CASTS;  14,  SPLIT 

THREADS;  15,  VERY  LONG  KNOTS 

16-20.    MINOR  DEFECTS    . 37 

FIG.  16, CORKSCREWS;  17,  LOOPS;  is,  LONG  KNOTS;  19. 

NIBS;    20,  RAW  KNOTS 

21.  LABORATORY    RECORD GAGE    TEST     39 

22.  SERIMETER      4-0 

23.  LABORATORY    RECORD  SERIMETER    TEST     41 

24.  SCOTT     SERIGRAPH      44 

25.  LABORATORY    RECORD SERIGRAPH    TEST     47 

26.  SEEM    COHESION    MACHINE     49 

27.  LABORATORY    RECORD COHESION    TEST     51 

28.  CROSS    SECTION    OF    REEL    BAR 62 

29.  GRANT  REELED  SKEINS 62 

30.  DIAGRAMMATIC   SKETCH  OF   GRANT    REEL    AND   STANDARD 

AMERICAN     SKEIN      63 

31.  GRANT    REELED    SKEIN,    LACED    IN    THREE    PLACES     ....  64 

32.  DETAILED    LACING    OF    A    GRANT    REELED    SKEIN 65 

33.  SET    OF    GEARS     66 

34.  SKEINS    MADE    BY    DIRECT    REELING     66 

35.  METHOD    OF    GEARING   TRAVERSE    AND    REEL    FOR   DIRECT 

REELING    INTO    A    STANDARD    AMERICAN    SKEIN 68 

36.  METHOD  OF  GEARING  TRAVERSE  AND  REEL   FOR  REREEL- 

ING  INTO    STANDARD    AMERICAN    SKEIN 70 

37.  REREELING   MACHINE   WITH   SMALL   REELS   SEPARATED.  .  71 

12 


PART    ONE 
Standard    Tests    for    Raw    Silk 


STANDARD   TESTS   FOR   RAW    SILK 


ARTICLE  I.—  GENERAL 

SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

These  specifications  for  standard  tests  for  raw  silk  are 
promulgated  by  The  Silk  Association  of  America  for  the 
purpose  of  standardizing  the  official  methods  of  testing  silk 
in  the  United  States,  in  order  to  facilitate  the  transactions 
between  buyers  and  sellers  of  silk,  and  to  furnish  the  pro- 
ducers of  raw  silk  on  the  primary  markets  accurate  infor- 
mation upon  the  methods  by  which  the  characteristics  of 
their  products  are  to  be  determined  by  the  American  con- 
sumers. While  the  test  methods  herein  described  constitute 
the  standard  tests,  they  are  not  to  be  construed  as  waiving 
the  right  in  individual  cases  to  make  any  or  all  of  them  in 
any  other  manner,  or  to  make  such  other  tests  as  may  be  de- 
sired. 

They  shall  apply  and  govern  as  the  methods  to  be  used 
for  official  tests  by  the  United  States  Testing  Company,  Inc., 
relating  to  contracts  in  which  they  are  specified,  under  the 
Rules  and  Regulations  of  The  Silk  Association  of  America, 
and  in  other  cases  where  no  special  or  specific  methods  are 
specified. 

SECTION  2. —  DEFINITIO  N  s 

Raw  silk  is  the  single  thread  as  reeled  from  cocoons  and 
is  understood  to  be  a  continuous  thread  from  beginning  to 
end  of  the  skein.  The  skeins  in  general  conform  in  weight, 

15 


^the specifications  for  the  Ameri- 
can Standard  Silk  Sltein  'described  in  Part  IV  of  this  re- 
port, as  issued  by  The  Silk  Association  of  America. 

Standard  Condition.  Where  the  expression  "standard 
condition  is  used  in  these  specifications,  it  shall  be  under- 
stood to  mean  the  condition  of  the  silk  when  it  contains  \\cfo 
of  its  dry  weight,  of  moisture. 

Standard  Atmosphere.  The  expression  "standard  atmos- 
phere"  shall  be  understood  to  mean  such  condition  of  the 
air  that  silk  placed  in  it  will,  within  a  reasonable  period, 
assume  a  standard  condition. 

SECTION  3. —  SAMPLING 

It  is  important  in  testing  by  means  of  samples  drawn 
from  the  merchandise,  that  the  samples  should  be  so  selected 
as  to  be  representative  of  the  merchandise  and  that  a  suffi- 
cient proportion  of  the  lot  should  be  sampled  to  be  repre- 
sentative of  the  entire  lot  to  which  the  tests  are  to  apply. 

The  amount  of  sample  and  the  number  of  samples  herein 
specified  are  understood  to  be  the  minimum  which  can  be 
considered  as  representative  and  which  shall  constitute  an 
official  sample  in  size  and  distribution. 

Sample  for  Test.  The  sample  for  a  test  shall  consist  of 
at  least  ten  average  original  skeins,  selected  at  random  from 
different  parts  of  a  bale,  not  more  than  one  skein  to  be  drawn 
from  any  one  book  or  bundle,  and  only  skeins  from  a  single 
bale  to  be  included  in  any  single  test.  Test  samples  for  two 
or  more  different  kinds  of  tests  may  be  taken  from  the 
original  ten  skeins. 

Sample  from  Lot.  If  the  results  of  test  are  to  represent 
and  be  applied  to  a  lot,  at  least  two  tests  must  be  made  upon 
every  five  bales  of  the  lot,  one  from  each  of  two  bales  selected 
at  random. 


16 


ARTICLE  II.—  WINDING     TEST 


SECTION  1.  —  OBJECT 

The  Winding  Test  is  intended  to  show  the  manner  in 
which  the  raw  silk  thread  will  pass  through  the  winding 
operation. 

SECTION  2.  —  SAMPLE 

The  sample  for  the  test  and  the  sampling  of  the  lot  is  as 
specified  in  Article  I,  Section  3.  Only  original,  intact  skeins, 
drawn  fresh  from  the  bale,  shall  be  used. 

SECTION  3.  —  APPARATUS 

The  winding  frame  upon  which  the  test  is  made  shall  run 
at  a  uniform  speed  and  be  capable  of  adjustment  to  the 
following  average  thread  speeds,  110,  137%,  165  meters 
[120,  150,  180  yards]  per  minute. 

Standard  Bobbin.  To  insure  a  uniform  tension  and  speed, 
the  bobbin  should  have  the  following  dimensions  (Figure  1): 

Diameter  of  head,  50  millimeters   (2  inches) 
Diameter  of  drum,  44  millimeters   (1%  inches) 
Length   between   heads,    75    millimeters    (3   inches) 


Fig.  1.       BOBBIN    FOR    STANDARD    WINDING    TEST 

The  bobbins  should  be  constructed  so  as  to  be  light,  well- 
balanced  and  smooth,  and  should  revolve  smoothly. 


r/H-eadett  grass  tr 


Fig.  1  A. 


SUGGESTED    HOLLOW    ALUMINUM    BOBBIN 
FOR    WINDING    TEST 


NOTE — The  bobbin  is  to  be  spun  from  seamless,  light  weight  aluminum  tubing 
one  and  three  quarters  inches  O.  D.  The  fiber  or  hardwood  plugs  are  to  be  inter- 
changeable and  the  steel  spindle  is  to  be  universal  so  as  to  be  used  in  either  direc- 
tion. 

For  single  end  drive  the  hub  is  to  be  removed  from  one  plug.  The  design  of  the 
removable  plugs  and  spindle  may  be  modified  in  any  way  to  reduce  cost  of  manu- 
facture. 

Trays  holding  ten  bobbins  should  be  made  from  light  wood  and  in  such  a  form 
as  to  stack  without  injuring  the  bobbins  and  provided  with  a  clip  for  a  card  bearing 
the  number  of  the  test,  the  weight  of  the  ten  bobbins  empty,  the  weight  filled,  etc. 

Swifts.  The  swifts  (tavelle)  used  in  the  test  should  be 
self-centering  geared  pin  hub  swifts  without  weights,  or 
twelve  stick,  pin  hub  swifts  without  weights.  (Figure  2.) 


(A)  Automatic  self-centering 
pin  hub  swift 

Fig.  2.      PIN    SWIFTS 


18 


(B)  Twelve  stick,  pin  hub  swift 


SECTION  4. —  SKEINS 

The  sample  skeins  shall  be  put  on  the  swifts  with  care 
to  insure  that  each  skein  is  in  good  condition.  The  degree 
of  the  gum  spots,  if  any  are  present,  should  be  recorded. 
Five  skeins  shall  be  wound  from  the  top  and  five  from  the 
bottom. 

Speed  of  Winding.  The  average  thread  speed  of  wind- 
ing shall  be  adjusted  according  to  the  average  size  of  the 
raw  silk  and  shall  be  regulated  as  nearly  as  possible  to  the 
following  speeds.: 

Below  13  denier  ....  110  meters  (120  yards)  per  minute 
13  denier  to  17  denier  137.5  meters  (150  yards)  per  minute 
Above  17  denier 165  meters  (180  yards)  per  minute 

The  maximum  thread  speed  of  winding  at  the  completion 
of  the  test  shall  not  exceed  the  following: 

Below  13  denier 130  meters   (140  yards)   per  minute 

13  denier  to  17  denier  155  meters  (170  yards)  per  minute 
Above  17  denier 180  meters  (200  yards)  per  minute 

Winding.  During  the  winding  test,  the  winding  labora- 
tory shall  be  maintained  at  as  nearly  a  standard  atmosphere 
as  possible. 

First  Period.  The  skeins  should  be  wound  onto  spare 
bobbins  for  fifteen  minutes.  They  should  then  be  inspected 
to  determine  if  any  are  in  bad  condition  due  to  damage,  mis- 
handling or  improper  putting  on.  If  any  skeins  are  found 
to  be  in  bad  condition  due  to  causes  other  than  poor  reeling, 
they  shall,  provided  they  do  not  exceed  two  in  number,  be 
omitted  from  the  test  which  shall  be  completed  on  the  re- 
maining skeins.  If  they  do  exceed  two  in  number,  additional 
samples  shall  be  drawn  and  replace  the  damaged  ones. 

Second  Period.  The  spare  bobbins  shall  then  be  replaced 
by  standard  bobbins  and  the  winding  continued  until  the 

19 


standard  bobbin  for  each  skein  is  filled  flush  with  the  heads, 
care  being  taken  to  insure  proper  traverse  to  wind  a  smooth, 
compact  bobbin. 

NOTE — The  second  period  should  require  about  one  hour  for  a  fourteen  denier 
raw  silk  and  yield  about  10,000  yards  from  each  skein,  or  100,000  yards  for  the  test. 
Other  sizes  will  require  proportionately  other  yardages  to  fill  the  standard  bobbins. 

SECTION  5. —  RECORD 

First  Period.  A  separate  record  (Figure  3)  shall  be 
kept  of  the  number  of  breaks  occurring  in  the  first  fifteen 
minutes  and  special  note  made  of  excessive  breaks  in  any 
particular  skeins,  stating  the  cause. 

Second  Period.  After  the  inspection  of  the  skeins,  a 
record  shall  be  kept  of  the  breaks  and  special  attention  given 
to  any  skeins  showing  an  excessive  number  of  breaks. 

Weighing.  When  the  bobbins  are  filled,  the  raw  silk  will 
be  rereeled,  without  waste,  into  skeins,  and  placed  for  at 
least  two  hours  in  a  space  maintained  at  a  standard  atmos- 
phere so  that  the  silk  will  regain  moisture  to  the  standard 
condition. 

The  skeins  will  then  be  weighed  in  grams  and  the  number 
of  breaks  per  100  grams  calculated  by  proportion.  The  breaks 
per  100  grams  may  be  converted  into  approximate  breaks 
per  pound  by  multiplying  by  four  and  one-half. 

The  breaks  per  100  grams  may  be  converted  into  approx- 
imate breaks  per  100,000  yards  by  multiplying  by  one-tenth 
of  the  average  size  of  the  silk. 

NOTE— If  the  suggested  Hollow  Aluminum  Bobbin  (Figure  1A)  is  used,  the  hubs 
and  spindle  can  be  removed  and  the  silk  weighed  on  the  aluminum  tube  before 
rewinding  into  skeins,  thus  avoiding  waste  and  delay. 


20 


Figure  3 

LABORATORY  RECORD 

Winding  Test 

Test  No Order  No Date Kind . 

Marks Bale    No Chop 

Average  Size   (S) Denier. 

TEST 

Speed  of  Winding Yards  per  minute 

Condition  of  Gum  Spots 

First  Period :  Breaks 

Remarks     

Second  Period :  Time  ........  Minutes 

Breaks 

Skein  Numbers I  1      2     3     4     5      6     T     8      9     10       Per  ten 

1st  ten 

Breaks    |  2nd  ten 
3rd  ten 

No.  of  Skeins  Wound Weight  Wound  ( W)  = Grams 

-_(B)  Breaks. 

Breaks  per  100  Grams  =  B  x  10°  = (Q  Breaks. 

Breaks  per  Pound  =  C  x  4.5  = Breaks. 

Breaks  per  100,000  Yards  =  C  x  — .  = Breaks. 

Winding  Quality  (as  per  Tentative  Classification,  Appendix  B) 

Wound  by.. Weighed  by 

Computed  by _ Checked  by 


21 


ARTICLE   III.—  SIZING      TEST     (450  METER) 

SECTION   1. —  OBJECT 

The  Sizing  Test  is  intended  to  determine  the  average  size, 
i.  e.,  the  weight  in  deniers  of  the  raw  silk  thread,  per  450 
meters.  One  denier  equals  five  centigrams. 

SECTION  2. —  APPARATUS 

The  measuring  machine  for  making  the  450  meter  sizing 
skeins  shall  have  a  reel  112l/>  centimeters  in  circumference 
(400  revolutions  equal  450  meters),  revolving  at  a  uniform 
velocity  of  300  revolutions  per  minute ;  provided  with  a  dial 
showing  the  number  of  revolutions,  and  equipped  with  an 
automatic  stop  motion  to  stop  the  reel  abruptly  in  case  the 
thread  breaks  and  when  the  skein  is  complete.  (Figure  4.) 

The  balance  for  determining  the  total  weight  of  the  skeins 
shall  be  capable  of  being  read  to  five  centigrams.  (Figure  5.) 

The  balance  for  weighing  the  individual  test  skeins  should 
be  of  the  quadrant  type,  graduated  in  half  deniers.  (Figure  6.) 


Fig.  4.      MEASURING    MACHINE 

22 


Fig.  5.   SKEIN  BALANCE  WITH  SPECIAL  PAN 


Fig.  6.   QUADRANT  BALANCE 
23 


SECTION  3. —  SAMPLE 

The  sample  for  the  test  and  the  sampling  for  the  lot  shall 
be  taken  as  specified  in  Article  I,  Section  3. 

SECTION  4. —  TEST 

From  the  ten  sample  skeins,  ten  bobbins  (one  from  each 
skein)  shall  be  wound  five  from  the  outside  and  five  from 
the  inside.  The  ten  bobbins  shall  be  placed  upright  on  the 
measuring  machine  and  three  test  skeins,  450  meters  each, 
reeled  from  each  bobbin,  a  total  of  thirty  sizing  skeins.  The 
sizing  test  skeins  may,  if  desired,  be  taken  from  the  bobbins 
wound  in  the  winding  test. 

The  room  in  which  the  reel  is  located  should  have  tem- 
perature and  humidity  control  regulated  to  maintain  a  stand- 
ard atmosphere  and  the  silk  should  be  in  as  nearly  standard 
condition  as  possible  at  the  time  of  reeling.  The  tension  on 
the  thread  should  be  sufficient  to  hold  it  taut  without  ex- 
cessive stretching.  Care  should  be  exercised  to  see  that  no 
short  test  skeins  are  reeled  by  the  stop  motion  failing  to  act 
quickly  upon  breaking  of  thread,  or  long  skeins  by  running 
over  400  revolutions. 

The  sizing  skeins,  which  lose  moisture  during  reeling, 
even  in  a  standard  atmosphere,  should  be  allowed  to  remain 
in  the  standard  atmosphere  for  a  sufficient  time  (about  one 
hour)  to  allow  them  to  return  to  standard  condition  and  then 
they  should  be  weighed  as  follows: 

Regular  Sizing.  If  the  standard  condition  assumed  by 
the  sizing  skeins  in  the  reeling  room  is  sufficiently  accurate, 
the  thirty  skeins  should  be  weighed  together  and  their  total 
weight  expressed  in  deniers. 

Each  skein  should  then  be  weighed  on  a  quadrant  bal- 
ance to  the  nearest  half  denier  and  the  sum  of  the  individual 
weighings  should  not  differ  from  the  total  weight  by  more 
than  one-half  denier. 


Figure  7 

LABORATORY  RECORD 

Sizing  Test  (450  Meter} 

Test  Number.  .  .  .   Order  Number.  .  .  .  Date Kind.  .  .  . 

Marks Bale  No Chop 

Number  of  sample  skeins  drawn 

Number  of   sizing  skeins   reeled  and  weighed 


TEST 

REGULAR      SIZE 


Denier 
(D) 

Number 
of  Skeins 
(N) 

(DxN) 

Number 
of  Skeins 
(N) 

Denier 
(D) 

0 

0 

OH 

OH 

1 

1 

1H 

1H 

2 

2 

|H 

|H 

3 

3 

3H 

3H 

4 

4 

44 

4^ 

0 

o 

5V2 

5H 

6 

6 

G'i 

6H 

i 

r 

7-2 

T^ 

8 

8 

84 

8*7 

9 

9 

m 

W/2 

Sum  of  Weights 

Total  Weight 

Average  Size 

CONDITIONED 
SIZE 

Absolute  dry  weight 
of  skeins  = 

Grams. 

Multiplied  by 

20=  ....Denier. 

Plus  11%  = 


Conditioned  weight 
=       Denier. 

Average  condition- 
ed size   = 

Denier. 

Observers 
Measured  by 


Weighed  by 

Conditioned  \veight 

by -- 

Computed  by 


NOTE — In  the  column  headed  "  Denier  (D)"  by  placing    Checked  by 
1  or  a  2  before  the  "o"  at  top  the  numbers  may  be 


made  to  read  anything  from  "o"  to  "30." 


25 


Conditioned  Sizing.  If  a  more  accurate  average  size  than 
the  regular  sizing  is  desired,  the  sizing  skeins  should,  after 
completion  of  the  regular  sizing,  be  placed  together  in  a 
conditioning  oven,  dried  to  constant  weight  at  130°  C.  to 
140°  C.  (266°  F.  to  284°  F.)  and  weighed  in  the  dry,  hot 
atmosphere. 

SECTION  5. —  RECORD 

The  record  should  show   (Figure  7)  : 

(a)  The  number  of  sample  skeins  drawn 

(b)  The  number  of  sizing  skeins  reeled  and  weighed 

(c)  The  total  weight  of  the  test  skeins  in  deniers 

(d)  The  average  weight  per  skein,  i.  e.,  the  average 

size  in  deniers 

(e)  The  weight  of  the  individual  skeins  arranged  in 

the  order  of  increasing  magnitude  and  the  sum 
of  the  individual  weighings. 

Conditioned  Sizing.  In  addition  to  the  record  made  for 
the  regular  sizing,  the  record  of  the  conditioned  sizing 
should  show  the  total  dry  weight  in  deniers;  the  total  con- 
ditioned weight  in  deniers,  i.  e.,  the  dry  weight  plus  11%; 
and  the  average  conditioned  weight  per  skein,  i.  e.,  the  aver- 
age conditioned  size  in  deniers. 


26 


ARTICLE   IV.—  AMERICAN     SIZING     TEST 

(225  METER) 

SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

The  American  Sizing  Test  is  intended  to  determine  the 
variation  in  weight,  in  deniers,  of  225  meter  lengths  of  the 
thread;  the  average  weight  in  deniers  of  225  meters  of  the 
thread ;  and  the  average  size,  i.  e.,  the  weight  in  deniers  per 
450  meters. 

Range.  The  range  for  a  test  is  the  difference  in  deniers 
between  the  weight  of  the  lightest  and  heaviest  225  meter 
test  skein  in  the  test.  The  range  for  a  lot  is  the  difference 
between  the  lightest  and  the  heaviest  test  skein  in  the  lot. 

SECTION  2. —  APPARATUS 

The  measuring  machine  for  making  the  225  meter  test 
skeins,  the  balance  for  determining  their  total  weight  and 
the  balance  for  weighing  the  individual  skeins,  shall  be  as 
specified  for  the  Sizing  Test  (Article  III,  Section  2). 

SECTION  3. —  SAMPLE 

The  sample  for  the  test  and  sampling  for  the  lot  shall  be 
taken  as  specified  in  Article  I,  Section  3. 

SECTION  4. —  TEST 

From  the  ten  sample  skeins,  ten  bobbins  (one  from  each 
skein)  shall  be  wound,  five  from  the  outside  and  five  from 
the  inside.  The  ten  bobbins  shall  be  placed  upright  on  the 
reeling  machine  and  six  test  skeins,  225  meters  each,  reeled 
from  each  bobbin,  a  total  of  sixty  test  skeins.  The  test  skeins 
may  be  taken  from  the  bobbins  wound  in  the  winding  test, 
if  desired.  The  room  in  which  the  reel  is  located  should 
have  temperature  and  humidity  control  regulated  to  maintain 
standard  atmosphere  and  the  silk  should  be  in  as  nearly 
standard  condition  as  possible  at  the  time  of  reeling.  The 
test  skeins,  which  lose  moisture  during  reeling,  even  in  a 

27 


standard  atmosphere,  should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
standard  atmosphere  for  a  sufficient  time  (about  one  hour) 
to  allow  them  to  return  to  standard  condition,  and  then  they 
should  be  weighed  as  follows: 

Weighing.  The  sixty  test  skeins  should  be  weighed  to- 
gether and  their  total  weight  expressed  in  deniers.  Each 
skein  should  then  be  weighed  on  a  quadrant  balance  to  the 
nearest  half  denier. 

Conditioned  Sizing.  If  the  conditioned  size  is  desired, 
the  skeins  may  then  be  placed  in  a  drying  oven,  dried  to 
constant  weight  at  130°  C.  to  140°  C.,  (266°  F.  to  284°  F.) 
and  weighed  in  the  dry,  hot  atmosphere. 

SECTION  5. —  RECORD 

The  record  should  show  (Figure  8): 

(a)  The  number  of  sample   skeins  drawn 

(b)  The  number  of  test  skeins  wound 

(c)  The  total  weight  of  the  test  skeins 

(d)  The  average  weight  of  the  test  skeins 

(e)  The  weight  of  the  individual  test  skeins,  arranged 

in  order  of  increasing  magnitude 

(f )  The  sum  of  the  weight  of  the  individual  test  skeins 

(g)  The  difference  between  the  weight  of  the  lightest 

and  heaviest  test   skeins  expressed  in  deniers, 
i.  e.,  the  range. 

The  average  size  may  be  calculated  by  multiplying  the 
average  weight  of  the  test  skeins  by  two,  or  by  dividing  the 
total  weight  of  the  sixty  skeins  by  thirty. 

CAUTION— The  range  found  for  225  meter  skeins  cannot  be  converted  into  the 
"spring"  ("ecart")  in  450  meter  skeins  by  multiplying  by  two  nor  by  doubling  the 
weight  of  the  lightest  and  heaviest  225  meter  skein  and  taking  their  difference. 
Such  a  calculation  would  assume  that  the  extreme  fine  and  coarse  portion  from 
which  the  lightest  and  heaviest  225  meter  skeins  were  reeled,  continued  for  another 
225  meters.  This  is  not  a  safe  assumption,  for  the  reason  that  the  "spring"  ("ecart") 
determined  by  the  450  meter  sizing  test  is  always  less  than  double  the  range  found 
by  the  225  meter  test  upon  the  same  silk. 

28 


Figure  8 

LABORATORY  RECORD 

American  Sizing  Test   (225  Meter} 

Test  Number.  .  .  .     Order  Number.  .  .  .     Date.  .  .  .    Kind.  .  .  . 

Marks Bale  Number Chop 

Number  of  sample  skeins  drawn 

Number  of   sizing  skeins   reeled  and  weighed 

TEST 


K  E  G  U  L  A  R      SIX  E 


Denier 
(D) 

Number 
of 
Skeins  (N) 

(DxX) 

Number 
of 
Skeins  (N) 

Denier 
CD) 

0 

0 

OH 

OV2 

1 

1 

\l/2 

Hi 

a 

o 

2H 

2H 

3 

3 

y/2 

y/2 

-i. 

4 

\l/2 

4H 

5 

3 

5h 

&2 

6 

G 

6h 

(i'/2  1 

7 

7 

1Y* 

7-2 

8 

8 

8'/2 

8*i 

9 

9 

9ii 

9V2 

Sum  of  Weights 

Total  Weight 

Average  Size 

CON  D  I  T I O  X  E  D 
SIZE 

Absolute  dry  weight 
of  skeins  = 

Grams. 

Multiplied  by 

20  = Denier. 

..Plus  11%   = 


Conditioned  weight 
=       ____  Denier. 

Average   condition- 
ed size  = 

....Denier. 


Observers 
Measured  by 

Weighed  by 

Conditioned  weight 
by  _______________ 

Computed  by 
Checked  by 


Range. to.. =  - —  Deniers. 

29 


PART    TWO 
Tentative    Standard    Tests    for    Raw    Silk 


-O OL 


o 


o 


LUJ 

Fig.  9.      THE    GAGE 


Fijr.  10.       THE    GAGE    REEL 


32 


TENTATIVE    STANDARD   TESTS    FOR 
RAW   SILK 

ARTICLE  I.— GAGE     TEST 


SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

The  Gage  Test  is  intended  to  measure  the  reeling  defects 
in  raw  silk  and  consists  of  a  determination  of  the  number 
and  kind  of  defects  in  a  given  length  of  the  thread. 

SECTION  2. —  APPARATUS 

The  gage  (Figure  9)  consists  of  two  pieces  of  hardened 
tool  steel  approximately  six  and  one-half  inches  long,  one 
inch  wide,  and  one-half  inch  thick.  One  narrow  side  of  each 
piece  is  ground  accurately  to  a  plane,  and  the  two  pieces  are 
bolted  together  so  that  the  plane  surfaces  form  a  very  narrow 
V-shaped  slit  between  them.  The  gage  is  graduated  to  read 
in  deniers  by  determining  fixed  points  at  which  the  width  of 
the  V-slit  is  equal  to  the  calculated  diameter  of  raw  silk  of  a 
selected  denier,  and  by  dividing  the  distance  along  the  gage 
into  spaces  proportional  to  the  diameter  of  the  thread. 

Ten  gages  constitute  a  set,  which  is  mounted  on  a  reeling 
machine  (Figure  10)  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  adjusted  to 
allow  the  silk,  as  it  passes  through  guides  from  bobbins  onto 
a  measuring  reel,  to  run  through  the  gages  at  its  average 
denier  as  determined  by  a  sizing  test. 

SECTION  3. —  EVENNESS     DEFECTS 

(A)  Weak  Threads  (tender  or  fine)  are  those  which 
break  30%  to  50%  below  the  average  strength  of  the  thread. 

33 


(B)  Very  Weak  Threads  (tender  or  fine)  are  those  which 
break  50%  or  more  below  the  average  strength  of  the  thread. 

(C)  Coarse  Threads  are  those  which  catch  and  break  in 
the  gages  and  of  which  the  strength  is  30%   to  50%   above 
the  average  strength  of  the  thread. 

(D)  Very   Coarse    Threads  are  those    which    catch  and 
break  in   the   gages   and   of  which   the   strength  is    50%    or 
more  above  the  average  strength  of  the  thread. 

SECTION  4. —  CLEANNESS     DEFECTS 

On  account  of  the  unequal  importance  of  the  different 
cleanness  defects  in  the  manufacturing  and  finishing  processes 
and  in  their  effect  upon  the  quality  of  the  finished  goods, 
cleanness  defects  are  divided  into  two  classes,  viz. — Major 
Defects  and  Minor  Defects. 

(A)  Major  Defects — (Figures  11,  12,  13,  14,  15.) 

(1)  Waste   is  a  mass  of  tangled   open  fiber   attached  to 
the  raw  silk  thread.     (Figure  11.) 

(2)  Slugs  are  thickened  places  several  times  the  diame- 
ter of  the  thread,  of  three  millimeters   (one-eighth  inch)   or 
over  in  length.      (Figure  12.) 

(3)  Bad    Casts    are    abruptly    thickened    places    on    the 
threads  due  to  the  cocoon  filament  not  being  properly  attach- 
ed to  the  thread.     (Figure  13.) 

(4)  Split   Threads   are  large  loops,  loose  ends,  or  open 
places  on  the  thread  where  one  or  more  cocoon  filaments  are 
separated  from  the  thread.      (Figure  14.) 

(5)  Very  Long  Knots  are  knots  which   have  loose  ends 
exceeding  two  and  one-half  centimeters  (one  inch)  in  length. 
(Figure  15.) 

(B)  Minor  Defects—  (Figures  16,  17,  18,  19,  20.) 

(1)    Corkscrews  are  places  on  the  thread  where  one  or 

34 


Fig.  13.      BAD    CASTS 


Figs.  11-15. 

MAJOR    DEFECTS 


Fig.  12.      SLUGS 


Fig.  15.      VERY    LONG   KNOTS 


35 


more   cocoon    filaments    are   longer   than   the    remainder    and 
wrap  around  the  thread  in  a  spiral  form.      (Figure  16.) 

(2)  Loops  are  small  open  places  in  the  thread  caused  by 
the  excessive  length  of  one  or  more  cocoon  filaments.      (Fig- 
ure 17.) 

(3)  Long  Knots  are  knots  which  have  loose   ends   from 
six  to  thirteen  millimeters    (one-quarter  to  one-half  inch)   in 
length.      (Figure  18.) 

(4)  Nibs  are  small  thickened  places  less  than  three  milli- 
meters  (one-eighth  inch)  in  length.     (Figure  19.) 

(5)  Raw  Knots  are  the  necessary  knots  for  tying  breaks 
in  the  raw  silk  thread  during  the  reeling  and  rereeling  oper- 
ation.    The  ends  of  the  knot  should  be  less  than  three  milli- 
meters  (one-eighth  inch)   long.      (Figure  20.)      The  number 
of   raw   knots    should    be    recorded   but   they    should    not    be 
counted  among  the  defects. 

SECTION  5. —  SAMPLE 

The  sampling  for  the  test  and  the  sampling  of  the  lot 
shall  be  as  specified  in  Part  I,  Article  I,  Section  3. 

SECTION  6. —  WINDING 

Sufficient  silk  for  the  test  shall  be  wound  from  the  sample 
skeins  onto  bobbins  under  the  same  conditions  as  specified 
in  the  winding  test  in  Part  I,  Article  II,  Sections  3  and  4. 
A  record  shall  be  kept  of  the  number  of  winding  breaks  and 
care  should  be  exercised  to  tie  all  winding  breaks  without 
removing  any  of  the  thread,  with  a  distinguishing  knot  (bow 
knot)  in  a  manner  to  be  easily  recognized.  The  silk  wound 
onto  bobbins  in  the  Winding  Test,  Part  I,  Article  II,  may  be 
used  for  the  Gage  Test,  provided  care  is  exercised  during  the 
Winding  Test  to  tie  all  winding  breaks  with  a  distinguishing 
knot  (bow  knot),  so  that  the  nature  of  the  defect  causing  the 
winding  break  may  be  determined  and  recorded. 

36 


Fig.  18.      LONG   KNOTS 


Figs.  16-20. 

MINOR    DEFECTS 


Fi§r.  20.     RAW    KNOTS 


37 


SECTION  7. —  TEST 

The  bobbins  shall  be  placed  upright  on  the  gage  reeling 
machine,  and  the  ends  of  the  threads  passed  through  guides 
and  the  gages  with  just  sufficient  tension  to  keep  the  thread 
taut.  The  gages  shall  be  adjusted  to  such  a  position  that 
the  thread  will  run  through  them  at  the  average  size.  The 
thread  speed  should  be  approximately  230  meters  (250  yards) 
per  minute.  When  the  thread  breaks,  the  reel  should  be 
stopped  and  both  ends  of  the  thread  examined  to  determine 
the  kind  of  defect  as  defined  by  Section  3  of  this  Article.  If 
either  portion  appears  fine  or  coarse  it  should  be  tested  on 
a  serimeter  to  determine  if  it  is  an  evenness  defect.  (Section 
3  [A]  [B]  [C]  [D].)  When  1000  yards  have  been  wound 
from  each  of  the  ten  bobbins  (10,000  yards  in  all)  the  reel 
should  be  stopped  and  a  record  made  of  the  number  of  de- 
fects in  each  class.  The  test  should  be  continued  until  a 
total  of  30,000  yards  has  been  reeled,  stops  and  records  be- 
ing made  of  each  10,000  yards. 

CAUTION— The  operator  should  see  that  no  waste  or  loose  matter  collects  on  the 
gages  to  interfere  with  the  passage  of  the  thread  and  care  should  be  exercised  to 
keep  the  gages  clean,  well  coated  with  oil  to  avoid  rusting,  and  protected  with 
covers  when  not  in  use.  The  gages  should  be  frequently. tested|to  determine  if  the 
width  of  the  slit  is  correct. 

SECTION   8. —  RECORD      (Figure  21). 

The  records  of  the  test  shall  show  the  number  of  each 
defect  for  each  10,000  yards  reeled  and  the  total  number  of 
each  defect  for  the  total  number  of  yards  tested. 


38 


Figure  21 

LABORATORY   RECORD 

Gage  Test 

Test   Number ....    Order   Number ....    Date ....    Kind .  . 
Marks Bale  Number Chop 

TEST 

EVENNESS 


DEFECTS 

1st  10,000 
Yards 

2nd  10,000 
Yards 

3rd  10,000 
Yards 

Total 

For  30,000  Yards 

Weak  Threads 

Very  Weak  Threads 

Coarse  Threads 

Very  Coarse  Threads 

Total 

CLEANNESS 


MAJOR 

Waste 

Slugs 

Bad  Casts 

Split  Threads 

Very  Long  Knots 

Total 

MINOR 

Corkscrews 

Loops 

Long  Knots 

Nibs 

Total 

Raw  Knots 

Tested  by 


39 


ARTICLE      II.— S  ERIMETER 
EVENNESS 


TEST        FOR 


SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

The  Serimeter  Test  for  evenness  is  made  to  determine  the 
variation  of  the  breaking  points  of  one  hundred  different  por- 
tions of  the  raw  silk  thread,  from  the  average  breaking  point 
found  by  taking  the  average  of  the  hundred  portions  tested. 


SECTION  2. —  APPARATUS 
The  serimeter  (Figure  22) 
used  for  the  test  must  be  sen- 
sitive and  capable  of  being 
read  to  one  gram  and  have  a 
maximum  capacity  of  250 
grams.  It  must  be  provided 
with  a  type  of  clip  which 
does  not  cut  the  thread.  The 
pulling  clip  of  the  testing 
machine  shall  move  at  a  uni- 
form speed  of  eighty  centi- 
meters per  minute. 


SECTION   3. —  SAMPLE 

The  sampling  for  the  test 
and  the  sampling  of  the  lot 
shall  be  as  specified  in  Part 
I,  Article  I,  Section  3.  The 
test  shall  be  made  upon  ten 
sizing  skeins. 


SERIMETER 


SECTION  4. —  TEST 

Each  sizing  skein  should  be  cut  once  and  from  each  of 
the  ten  sizing  skeins,  ten  strands  shall  be  selected  at  random, 
and  examined  to  see  that  they  appear  to  be  clean  threads 
(i.  e.,  contain  no  cleanness  defects  as  defined  and  illustrated 


40 


Figure  23 

LABORATORY   RECORD 

Serhneter  Test 

Test    Number..     .    Order    Number....    Date....    Kind 


Marks 


Bale  Number . 
TEST 


Chop 


Break  ing 
Point 
Grams  (G) 

Number 
of  Breaks 
(N5 

Product 
G  xN 

frequency 

Grams    No. 

DIAGRAM 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

40 

45 

50 

* 

* 

55 

GO 

65 

TO 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

Total  Products 

Average  Breaking  Point 

*  This  line  is  average  breaking  strength  line. 

Tested  by. 
Computed  by 
41 


in  Part  II,  Article  I).  The  strands  shall  be  placed  in  the 
serimeter,  inspected  again  to  make  sure  they  are  clean,  and 
the  breaking  point  determined.  Any  strands  found  to  contain 
cleanness  defects  should  be  replaced  by  clean  ones  and  strands 
which  break  in  the  clips  should  not  be  counted.  The  length 
of  thread  between  the  clips  at  the  beginning  of  each  test 
shall  be  fifty  centimeters  (twenty  inches). 

SECTION  5. —  RECORD 

The  breaking  point  of  each  strand  (Figure  23)  should 
be  read  and  recorded  to  the  nearest  five  grams,  the  values 
being  arranged  in  the  order  of  increasing  magnitude.  The 
record  should  show  the  frequency,  i.  e.,  the  number  of  breaks 
at,  above  and  below  the  average  breaking  point. 

NOTE — The  following  arrangement  will  be  found  simple,  convenient  and  easily 
interpreted.  The  report  blank  should  have  a  portion  ruled  both  horizontally  and 
vertically.  Each  space  from  the  top  downward  may  be  taken  equal  to  five  grams 
and  each  space  across  the  sheet  equal  to  five  strands.  Assigning  values  to  the  spaces 
vertically,  the  breaking  point  of  the  individual  strands  may  be  tallied  beside  their 
corresponding  values  and  at  the  completion  of  the  test  the  total  number  of  tallies 
for  each  breaking  point  can  be  entered  in  an  adjoining  space.  A  graphical  repre- 
sentation of  the  result  of  the  test  can  be  easily  made  by  drawing  at  each  breaking 
point,  horizontally  from  a  fixed  vertical  line,  a  heavy  line  with  its  length  indicating 
the  number  of  strands  breaking  at  that  point. 


42 


ARTICLE   III.—  SERIGRAPH     TEST 


SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

The  Serigraph  Test  is  designed  to  determine  the  tenacity, 
elasticity  and  elongation  of  raw  silk. 

NOTE— As  a  raw  silk  thread  is  pulled,  it  stretches  at  first  proportionally  to  the 
pulling  force  and  if  the  pulling  force  is  relieved  the  thread  will  return  to  its  original 
length.  If  the  force  continues  to  increase,  it  will  reach  a  point  at  which  the  thread 
begins  to  stretch  more  rapidly  and  to  be  permanently  stretched. 

SECTION  2. —  DEFINITIONS 

The  three  physical  characteristics  determined  in  this  test 
are  defined  as  follows: 

Tenacity  is  the  strength  of  a  single  thread  expressed  in 
grams  per  denier. 

Elasticity  is  the  limiting  force  expressed  in  grams  per 
denier  which  the  thread  will  just  support  without  permanent 
elongation.  It  is  indicated  in  the  test  by  the  yield  point  on 
the  serigraph  record  at  which  the  straight  line  portion  ends 
and  the  diagram  becomes  curved. 

Elongation  (heretofore  called  Elasticity)  is  the  amount 
that  the  silk  is  stretched  when  pulled  to  the  breaking  point. 

SECTION  3. —  APPARATUS 

The  apparatus  for  the  test  consists  of  a  tensile  strength 
testing  machine  with  an  autographic  attachment  recording 
simultaneously  the  pulling  force  and  the  corresponding  elon- 
gation of  the  thread.  (Figure  24.)  The  machine  must  be 
located  in  a  room  having  humidity  and  temperature  control 
and  must  be  capable  of  being  tested  for  correctness  of  read- 
ing by  direct  loading  with  standard  weights.  The  total 
capacity  of  the  machine  should  not  be  greater  than  twice 
the  ultimate  strength  of  the  specimen  to  be  tested.  The 
uniform  speed  of  the  pulling  jaw  should  be  fifteen  centimeters 
(six  inches)  per  minute. 

43 


Fig.  24     SCOTT   SERIGRAPH 


SECTION  4. — S  AMPLE 
The  sample  for  the 
test    and    the  sampling 
for     the      lot    shall    be 
taken      as    specified    in 
Part   I,  Article    1,   Sec- 
tion 3.     The  test  sample 
shall  consist  of  ten  siz- 
ing   skeins.       The    450 
meter  skeins  used  in  the 
Sizing  Test  or  the  225  meter 
skeins  used  in  the  American 
Sizing    Test    may    be    used, 
but  in  either  case,  the  skeins 
should  not    be  twisted    tight 
enough  to  injure  the  gum  and 
the  skeins   should  be  opened 
and    allowed    to    hang    loose 
for    some    time   before    being 
tested  in  the  serigraph.     Siz- 
ing   skeins   which   have   been 
used  for  a  conditioned  sizing 
(Part  I,  Article  III,  Section 
4)  cannot  be  used  in  this  test 
on    account    of    the    possible 
changes      in      the      physical 
properties      of      the      thread 
which  may  have  taken  place 
due    to    the    heating    in    the 
conditioning  oven. 

SECTION   5. —  TEST 

The  test  skeins  shall  be 
placed  in  a  space  in  which 
the  relative  humidity  and 
temperature  can  be  regulated 


44 


to  the  standard  regain,  and  they  shall  remain  a  sufficient  time 
(usually  one  to  two  hours)  to  allow  them  to  become  adjusted 
to  a  standard  moisture  content.  Each  skein  should  then  be 
carefully  weighed  to  the  nearest  one-quarter  denier,  placed 
in  the  recording  serigraph  and  tested  for  tenacity,  yield 
point  and  elongation. 

XOTK — The  skein  must  be  secured  in  the  clamps  of  the  serigraph  in  such  a  man- 
ner that  all  strands  are  held  firmly  and  none  of  the  threads  are  cut  by  the  pressure 
of  the  clamps  or  any  sharp  edges.  This  can  be  easily  accomplished  by  wrapping  all 
of  the  strands  around  a  strip  of  soft  cardboard  and  placing  the  cardboard  in  the 
clamps  of  the  machine  in  such  a  manner  that  all  strands  are  securely  held,  but  not 
crushed.  It  is  convenient  to  place  the  test  specimen  in  the  upper  clamp  of  the  test- 
ng  machine  first,  then  carefully  draw  all  of  the  strands  smooth  and  taut,  and  wrap 
them  around  a  second  cardboard  at  the  position  in  which  the  lower  clamp  should 
seize  the  strands.  Caution  should  be  exercised  to  see  that  all  strands  are  parallel, 
uniformly  taut,  and  none  excessively  stretched. 

The  length  of  the  tested  portion  should  be  ten  centimeters 
(four  inches)  between  the  clamps  of  the  machine  when  the 
test  begins.  Care  should  be  exercised  to  prevent  the  por- 
tion of  the  skein  which  is  not  between  the  clamps,  from  sup- 
porting any  portion  of  the  pulling  force. 

SECTION  6. —  RECORD 

The  autographic  record  should  show  (Figure  25)  a  load- 
elongation  diagram  from  which  the  load  and  the  elongation 
at  any  point  during  the  test  can  be  read  with  an  accuracy 
of  5%  and  the  final  reading  on  the  dial  of  the  testing 
machine  should  check  with  the  breaking  load  as  shown  on 
the  autographic  diagram.  By  placing  a  ruler  along  the 
straight  line  portion  of  the  diagram,  the  point  at  which  the 
diagram  begins  to  depart  from  a  straight  line  can  be  marked. 
This  point  will  be  called  the  yield  point. 

The  pulling  force  at  the  yield  point  divided  by  the 
number  of  strands,  and  by  the  weight  of  the  skeins  in  deniers 
is  called  the  elasticity  of  the  silk  and  is  expressed  in  grams 
per  denier. 

The  total  stretch  to  the  breaking  point,  divided  by  the 
original  length  is  the  elongation  and  should  be  expressed 
in  per  cent. 

45 


The  tabulated  record  shall  show  the  following: 
For  each  skein: 

(a)  The  number  of  strands  tested 

(b)  The  weight  of  the  skein  in  denier s 

(c)  The  breaking  force  in  grams 

(d)  The  tenacity,  i.  e.,  the  grams  per  denier 

(e)  The  elasticity,  i.  ev  the  pulling  force  in  grams   per 

denier  at  the  yield  point 

(f)  The  elongation^  in  percentage. 

For  the  entire  test  of  ten  skeins: 

(a)  The  average  tenacity 

(b)  The  average  elasticity 

(c)  The  average  elongation. 

NOTE— It  has  been  found  by  experiment  that  the  breaking:  force,  in  grams,  of  a 
number  of  threads  tested  together  on  the  serigraph  is  approximately  %  of  the  sum 
of  the  breaking  forces  found  by  testing  the  same  number  of  threads  of  the  same 
silk  singly  on  the  serimeter. 


Figure  25 

LABORATORY   RECORD 
Serigraph  Test 

Test   Number ....    Order   Number ....    Date ....    Kind .  . 
Marks 

TEST 

Length  of  Specimen  (L) centimeters 

Number  of  Strands  (N) 


Bale  Number Chop 


Skein 
Xo. 

Weight 
(W) 
Deniers 

Breaking 
Force 
Grams  (C^ 

Tenacity 
-^_g,perd. 

Yield  Point 
(V) 
Grains 

Elasticity 

Elongation 

vv^s8'perd- 

MM 

**!£.,  100 

1 

2 

3 

4 

0 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

Total 

Average  per  Skein    (A) 

Average  per  Strand  =~X~ 

Tested  by  . . . 
Computed  by 
Checked  by.. 


47 


ARTICLE    IV.—  COHESION      TEST 
(By  SEEM'S  COHESION  MACHINE) 

SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

The  Cohesion  Test  is  intended  to  determine  the  com- 
pactness of  the  raw  silk  thread  and  the  thoroughness  with 
which  the  cocoon  filaments  forming  the  thread  have  been 
agglutinated.  It  is  based  upon  the  amount  of  rolling  and 
rubbing  under  constant  pressure  which  the  thread  will  with- 
stand before  splitting  into  its  individual  cocoon  filaments. 

SECTION  2. —  APPARATUS 

The  Seem  Cohesion  Machine  (Figure  26)  consists  of  a 
hardened  steel  roller  accurately  ground  and  polished,  approx- 
imately six  and  one-half  millimeters  [one-quarter  inch]  in 
diameter,  mounted  on  a  steel  arm  which  is  hinged  at  one 
end  and  which  acts  as  the  weight  to  produce  pressure  on 
the  roller.  Under  the  roller  a  steel  carriage  mounted  be- 
tween guides  moves  back  and  forth  a  distance  of  about  fifty 
millimeters  (two  inches.)  The  carriage  is  fitted  writh  two 
clamps  for  holding  the  specimens  and  a  counter  indicates  the 
number  of  strokes  which  the  carriage  makes  during  the 
test.  The  roller  is  set  at  an  angle  of  two  and  one-half  de- 
grees to  the  path  of  movement  of  the  carriage,  so  that  the 
thread  is  submitted  to  a  rolling  and  rubbing  action. 

NOTE — Great  care  should  be  exercised  to  keep  the  roller  smooth,  free  from  rust 
or  dirt,  and  to  see  that  it  is  properly  lubricated  and  adjusted  to  turn  freely  but  with 
only  slight  endwise  motion.  When  not  in  use,  the  roller  should  be  covered  with  a 
film  of  vaseline  or  oil  to  prevent  rusting,  but  the  film  must  be  thoroughly  removed 
with  alcohol  or  gasoline  before  beginning  a  test. 

SECTION  3. —  SAMPLE 

The  sample  for  the  test  shall  consist  of  five  skeins  and 
the  sampling  of  the  lot  is  as  specified  in  Part  I,  Article  I, 
Section  3.  The  test  specimen  consists  of  fifty  strands  taken 
at  intervals  of  not  more  than  two  meters  (two  yards)  along 

48 


.  26.        SEEM     COHESION     MACHINE 


the  thread  from  a  single  skein,  laid  taut,  twenty  threads  per 
centimeter  (fifty  threads  per  inch)  on  a  sheet  of  firm,  tm- 
glazed,  black  cardboard,  to  which  they  are  secured  by  means 
of  gummed  paper  tape.  One  test  specimen  shall  be  prepared 
from  each  of  five  sample  skeins  and  may  be  taken  from  the 
bobbins  of  the  winding  test  or  direct  from  the  sample  skein. 
Raw  silk  which  has  been  used  for  a  Conditioned  Sizing,  a 
Serimeter  Test,  a  Serigraph  Test,  or  any  test  which  affects  its 
physical  qualities,  shall  not  be  used  for  the  Cohesion  Test. 
Before  being  used  for  the  test  the  card  should  be  inspected  to 
determine  if  the  threads  have  any  cleanness  defects  or  pro- 
nounced unevenness  in  the  portion  which  is  to  be  tested.  Im- 
perfect threads  should  be  removed  before  starting  the  test 
and  in  case  the  strands  are  noticeably  uneven  the  card  should 
be  rejected  and  another  card  made. 


SECTION  4. —  TEST 

The  sample  cards  should  be  kept  in  a  standard  atmos- 
phere for  at  least  one  hour  after  preparation  to  insure  that 
the  thread  is  in  standard  condition.  The  testing  machine 
should  be  operated  in  a  room  where  the  relative  humidity  and 
temperature  can  be  maintained  at  standard  condition  during 
the  test.  The  test  cards  should  be  clamped  in  the  machine 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  lie  flat  and  smooth  and  the  threads 
parallel  with  the  direction  of  movement  of  the  carriage.  The 
machine  should  run  at  a  uniform  speed  of  120  strokes  per 
minute  and  there  should  be  no  evidence  of  jumping  or  jerking 
at  the  end  of  the  stroke.  As  the  test  proceeds,  the  threads 
should  be  inspected  occasionally.  As  they  begin  to  open, 
frequent  examinations,  at  least  every  fifty  strokes,  should 
be  made  to  determine  when  all  are  completely  open. 

NOTE— The  openness  of  the  thread  can  be  conveniently  determined  by  remov- 
ing the  card  from  the  machine,  inserting  a  thin  piece  of  metal  between  the  thread 
and  the  card  and  slightly  raising  the  thread  off  the  card. 

SECTION  5. —  RECORD 

The  record  of  the  test  should  show  (Figure  27)  the 
number  of  cards  tested,  the  number  of  strokes  necessary  to 
open  all  of  the  threads  on  each  card  and  the  average  number 
of  strokes. 

NOTE— In  cases  where  the  threads  do  not  appear  to  be  opening  uniformly  and  a 
small  number  (five  or  less)  indicate  that  they  will  require  a  much  larger  number 
of  strokes  to  open  them,  the  test  may  be  considered  complete  when  90^  of  the  threads 
are  open. 


50 


Figure  27 

LABORATORY  RECORD 

Cohesion  Test 
Test    Number..     .    Order    Number..         Date....    Kind 


Marks Bale  Number 


Chop 


TEST 

Number  of  sample  skeins -  _      Number  of  strands  on  card 


Sample 
Skein 

Number 
Strokes 

1 

-2 

3 

I 

5 

Total 

Average 

Extremes . .  to 


Tested  by 


51 


PART    THREE 
Tentative    Classification 


TENTATIVE   CLASSIFICATION 

ITALIAN,      JAPANESE      AND      CHINESE      STEAM 

FILATURE  (SHANGHAI)  RAW  SILK  BASED 

UPON  TENTATIVE  STANDARD  TESTS 

This  Tentative  Classification  of  Italian,  Japanese  and 
Chinese  Steam  Filature  (Shanghai)  Raw  Silk  is  promulga- 
ted by  The  Silk  Association  of  America  to  provide  the  means 
for  interpreting  the  results  of  tests  made  by  the  methods  and 
apparatus  described  in  the  Standard  and  Tentative  Standard 
Tests  for  Raw  Silk. 

No  attempt  is  made  to  establish  any  relation  with  the 
present  market  Classification  and  it  is  not  intended  that  this 
Tentative  Classification  shall  apply  to  sales  contracts  under 
the  Raw  Silk  Rules  and  Regulations  of  The  Silk  Association 
of  America,  unless  specifically  included  as  special  conditions 
of  the  sales  contract. 

Nothing  in  this  Classification  shall  prevent,  in  individual 
cases,  the  designation  of  specific  characteristics  which  are 
especially  desired,  provided  such  designation  is  made  in  ad- 
vance of  agreement  of  sale  and  is  made  a  part  of  the  sales 
contract. 

The  limits  set  in  each  grade  are  the  minimum  require- 
ments which  raw  silk  can  show  and  fall  within  the  grade. 

55 


TESTS 

GRADE 

First 

Seconc 

Third 

Fourth 

Average    Tenacity,     grams 

Scrigraph 

per  denier     (Note  A)                    over 

3.50 

3.30 

3.20 

3.00 

Average    Elongation 

percentage                                       over 

20% 

18% 

16% 

ie* 

Evenness  Defects 

Average  13  deniers  to  average 

18  deniers                               not  over 

5 

10 

-20 

30 

Gage 

Average  18  deniers  to  average 

(30,000 
yards  ) 

22  deniers                              not  over 

4 

8 

16 

24 

Cleanness  Defects 

Major  Defects                           not  over 

o 

25 

50 

75 

Elinor  Defecis  (Note  B)          not  over 

50 

100 

150 

200 

Average  Size—  Permissible  limits  are  specified  in  Raw  Silk  Rules 

and  Regulations  of  The  Silk  Association  of  America, 

Amended  March  23,   1921,  pages  T  10. 

Range  in  denier,  for  the  lot  (  not 

exceeding  10  bales)  (  Note  C) 

American 
Sizing 
(225 
meter  ) 

Average  13  deniers  to  average 
18  deniers                             not  over 

3.5 

4 

5 

5 

Average  18  deniers  to  average 

22  deniers                             not  over 

4.5 

5 

6 

6 

56 


NOTE  A — It  has  been  found  by  experience  that  tenacity  in  grams  per  denier  by 
the  serigraph  is  very  approximately  ~/&  of  that  found  by  the  serimeter  on  the  same 
silk. 

NOTE  B — If  all  other  characteristics  are  satisfactory  for  a  grade  and  the  Minor 
Defects  should  exceed  the  limit  of  the  grade,  an  additional  allowance  as  high  as 
50/?  may  be  made  in  the  Minor  Defects. 

NOTE  C — Range  for  450  meter  sizing  test  should  not  be  assumed  as  double  these 
values. 

The  approximate  equivalents  for  450  meters  are  ;—      > 


First 

Second 

Third 

Fourth 

Average  13  deniers  to  average  13  deniers     not  over 

6 

7 

9 

9 

Average  18  deniers  to.average  22  deniers     not  over 

8 

9 

11 

11 

APPENDIX    A 

COHESION 

The  Cohesion  Test  is  especially  important  for  raw  silks 
which  are  to  be  used  for  raw  weaving  and  it  furnishes  val- 
uable information  for  all  silks.  It  is  not  however  included, 
at  present,  as  one  of  the  characteristics  upon  which  the  Ten- 
tative Classification  is  based. 

The  Test  is  recommended  and  for  those  who  use  it  the 
following  interpretation  of  the  results  is  suggested: 


TESTS 

GRADE  OF  COHESION 

Excellent 

Good 

Fair 

Poor 

Strokes:   Average  of  five  cards 
not  less  than 

1500 

1300 

1100 

1000 

Strokes:    Individual  cards 
not  less  than 

1200 

1000 

800 

600 

57 


APPENDIX    B 


WINDING 

Winding  is  the  mill  operation  by  which  the  raw  silk  skein 
is  wound  onto  a  bobbin.  The  winding  quality  of  the  silk  de- 
pends upon  the  thread  and  skein  formation  and  is  measured 
by  the  number  of  breaks  which  will  occur  in  winding  a 
measured  quantity  by  the  method  described  in  Standard  and 
Tentative  Standard  Tests.  It  is  not  a  part  of  the  Tentative 
Classification  of  Raw  Silk  but  is  graded  as  an  independent 
characteristic  as  follows: 


TEST 

WINDING  QUALITY 

Excellent 

Good 

Fair 

Poor 

Very  Poor 

Winding  of  100,000  yards 
Breaks                        not  over 

5 

10 

20 

30 

over  30 

58 


PART    FOUR 

Specifications    for   American    Standard 
Silk    Skein 


SPECIFICATIONS  FOR  AMERICAN  STANDARD 
SILK  SKEIN 

SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

These  specifications  for  the  American  Standard  Silk  Skein 
are  promulgated  by  The  Silk  Association  of  America  for  the 
purpose  of  informing  the  producers  of  raw  silks  regarding 
the  physical  characteristics  which  the  raw  silk  skein  should 
possess,  in  order  to  be  the  most  satisfactory  to  the  American 
consumers.  It  is  essential  in  American  silk  mills  that  the 
raw  silk  skeins  be  uniform  in  circumference,  width  and 
weight;  that  they  be  free  from  reel-arm  gums;  that  the  be- 
ginning of  the  raw  silk  thread  be  easily  and  quickly  found 
and  that  the  thread  be  unwound  from  the  skein  with  the 
least  possible  number  of  breaks  and  the  smallest  possible 
amount  of  waste. 

SECTION  2. —  REELING     AND     REREELING 

The  American  manufacturers  prefer  rereeled  raw  silk 
because  of  its  superior  winding  characteristics,  but  raw  silk 
may  be  reeled  directly  into  American  Standard  Silk  Skeins, 
provided  the  skein  formation  conforms  to  these  specifications. 

SECTION  3. —  REEL 

The  reel  for  forming  the  American  Standard  Silk  Skein 
shall  be  from  148  centimeters  to  150  centimeters  (fifty-eight 
inches  to  fifty -nine  inches)  in  circumference  and  shall  have 
six  arms,  uniformly  spaced.  The  arms  shall  have  the  outside 
face  upon  which  the  skein  rests,  rounded  in  such  a  manner 

61 


that  the  thread  touches  it  for  a  distance  of  from  one  and  two- 
tenths  centimeters  to  two  centimeters  (one-half  inch  to  three 
quarter  inch).  (Figure  28.) 


Fig:.  28.      CROSS    SECTION     OF    REEL    BAR 


SECTION  4. —  GUM    SPOTS 

Hard  gum  spots,  even  if  they  are  small,  are  very  ob- 
jectionable and  should  be  entirely  avoided.  The  reel  bar 
described  in  Section  3  will  produce  much  softer  gum  spots, 
more  easily  removed,  than  the  narrow  or  V-shaped  bar  which 
tends  to  produce  small,  hard  places  difficult  to  rub  out  with- 
out damaging  the  silk. 


Fig:.  29.      GRANT   REELED    SKEINS 
A  has  12  diamonds ;     B  has  8  diamonds  ;     C  has  10  diamonds. 

62 


SECTION  5. —  TRAVERSE  (Fig- 
ure 29  and  Figure  30,  Diagram 
of  Skein  Formation) 
The  guide  through  which  the 
thread  passes  onto  the  reel  shall 
pass  to  and  fro  along  the  reel  in 
such  a  manner  that  a  definite  ratio 
exists  between  the  revolutions  of 
the  reel  and  the  guide  of  the 
traverse,  so  that  the  thread  forms 
clearly  defined  diamonds  in  the 
skeins.  This  diamond  formation 
of  skein  is  known  as  Grant  Reel- 
ing. There  may  be  from  eight  to 
twelve  complete  diamonds  across 
the  face  of  the  skein. 

Figure  30  is  a  diagrammatic 
sketch  of  a  skein  made  by  13/24 
gear  ratio.  In  such  a  combination 
the  reel  revolves  twenty-four 
times,  while  the  traverse  crank 
makes  thirteen  revolutions  moving 
the  guide  of  the  traverse  across 
the  skein  and  back  thirteen  times, 
producing  thirteen  diamonds. 

NOTE— Care  should  be  exercised  to  keep 
all  bearings  of  the  gears  and  connecting  rods 
which  operate  the  traverse  in  good  condition 
so  as  not  to  produce  indistinct  and  imperfect 
diamonds. 

SECTION     6. —  SKEIN        (Figure 

31   and  Figure  32) 

The  width  of  the  finished  skein 
on  the  reel  shall  be  eight  centi- 
meters (three  inches)  and  its 
weight  shall  be  approximately  as 
follows: 


!  | 


11 


63 


Average  Sizes 

Fine  sizes  up  to  12  deniers  —  65  grams  to  70  grams  (2*4 
ounces  to  2%  ounces) 

13  deniers  to  15  deniers  —  70  grams  to  85  grams  (2% 
ounces  to  3  ounces) 

Above  15  deniers  —  85  grams  to   100  grams    (3  ounces  to 
ounces) 


The  skein  shall  be  one  continuous  thread  made  by  tying 
all  breaks  with  good,  clean  knots,  with  the  loose  ends  cut 
not  more  than  three  millimeters  (one-eighth  inch)  long.  The 
outside  end  of  the  thread  shall  be  tied  around  the  skein  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  be  easily  found.  The  skein  shall  be 
laced  at  three  places  equally  spaced  with  a  fine,  soft-twisted, 
cotton  or  spun  silk  yarn  passed  through  at  least  five  diamonds 
in  the  width  of  the  skein,  tied  so  that  the  knot  is  about  one 


Fig.  81.   GRANT  REELED  SKEIN 
LACED  IN  THREE  PLACES 

64 


centimeter  (one-half  inch)  from  the  edge  of  the  skein,  and 
the  loose  ends  cut  not  to  exceed  one  centimeter  (one-half 
inch)  in  length  from  the  knot  (Figure  31  and  Figure  32). 


Fiff.  32.      DETAILED     LACING     OF 
A    GRANT-REELED    SKEIN 


APPENDIX    A 

WINDING  OF  THE  AMERICAN  STANDARD  SILK 

SKEIN 

SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

The  winding  test  is  intended  to  show  the  manner  in 
which  the  raw  silk  thread  will  pass  through  the  winding 
operation. 

(For  other  specifications  see  Standard  Tests,  Sections 
2-5  and  Appendix  A  to  Tentative  Classification) 


APPENDIX     B 

SUGGESTIONS    ON   REELING    MACHINE 
CONSTRUCTION  AND  USE 

SECTION  1. —  OBJECT 

The  construction  of  the  reeling  machine  for  reeling  the 
American  Standard  Silk  Skein  is,  as  a  whole,  very  simple. 
The  frame  and  reel  box  can  easily  be  constructed  of  wood, 

65 


"*-2-#  Teei-h 


Fig.  33.      SET  OF  GEARS 


Fig.  34.      SKEINS    MADE    BY    DIRECT    REELING 
66 


although  cast  iron  frames  make  a  more  rigid  and  stronger 
machine.  The  only  portion  requiring  careful  attention  to 
design  and  construction  is  the  traverse,  i.  e.,  the  guide  which 
directs  the  back  and  forth  motion  of  the  thread  as  it  is 
wound  onto  the  reel.  These  suggestions  are  intended  to  call 
attention  especially  to  the  traverse  and  to  show  a  simple  con- 
struction which  will  be  cheap,  easily  built,  and  effective  in 
operation. 

SECTION  2. —  TRAVERSE 

The  diamond  in  the  skein  is  formed  by  having  the  traverse 
guide  move  back  and  forth  with  a  definite  number  of  com- 
plete crossings  to  a  definite  number  of  revolutions  so  that 
the  thread  repeats  its  course  on  the  reel  and  forms  a  skein 
showing  well  defined  diamonds.  The  traverse  mechanism 
must  be  positively  connected  with  the  axis  of  the  reel  and 
must  be  driven  by  it.  The  essential  parts  are  a  reel  with 
a  given  number  of  arms,  a  set  of  gears  with  a  fixed  ratio 
between  the  teeth  (Figure  33)  determined  by  the  number 
of  arms  and  the  number  of  diamonds  it  is  desired  to  produce, 
and  a  connecting  mechanism  to  drive  the  traverse.  Each  reel 
must  drive  its  own  traverse  (Figure  33). 

SECTION  3. —  DIRECT     REELING 

Raw  silk  can  be  reeled  from  the  cocoon  directly  into 
American  Standard  Silk  Skeins  (Figure  34)  but  the  skeins 
produced  in  this  way  are  generally  inferior  in  formation  and 
winding  quality  to  American  Standard  Silk  Skeins  produced 
by  rereeling.  The  quality  of  the  silk  is  also  improved  by 
rereeling,  provided  it  is  properly  done  with  sufficient  tension, 
because  it  reduces  the  number  of  fine  ends  and  some  of  the 
other  defects. 

The  apparatus  (Figure  35)  consists  of  a  reel,  traverse  and 
set  of  gears  which  will  produce  a  nine  diamond  skein,  three 
inches  wide.  The  reel  bars  AA  are  six  in  number,  the  cir- 

67 


68 


cumference  of  the  reel  is  one  and  a  half  meters  (fifty-nine 
inches)  and  the  reel  bars  have  a  cross  section  as  shown  at  B. 

The  axle  of  the  reel  is  fitted  on  one  end  with  a  small 
pulley  which  rests  on  a  larger  pulley  on  the  power  shaft 
and  drives  the  reel.  On  the  other  end  is  fastened  one  beveled 
gear  C  having  twenty-four  teeth.  The  beveled  gear  D  also 
having  twenty-four  teeth,  engages  C  and  is  connected  to 
beveled  gear  E  by  the  rod  F.  Beveled  gear  E  has  thirteen 
teeth  and  engages  beveled  gear  G  which  has  twenty-four 
teeth.  The  set  of  gears  C  and  D  are  only  for  the  purpose 
of  changing  the  direction  of  rotation  at  right  angles  to  the 
axis  of  the  reel. 

The  rod  H  leads  from  gear  G  to  the  front  of  the  reel 
box  and  has  on  its  outer  end  a  crank  K  with  a  connecting 
rod  L  attached  to  a  pin  M  in  the  bar  N  which  carries  the 
guides  P  which  lead  the  thread  on  the  reel.  The  connecting 
rod  L  should  be  thirty  and  one-half  centimeters  (twelve 
inches)  from  center  to  center  of  pin  holes. 

The  hole  in  the  connecting  rod  L  through  which  the  wrist 
pin  M  passes  should  be  in  the  form  of  a  slot  approximately 
six  millimeters  (one  quarter  inch)  greater  in  length  than  the 
diameter  of  the  wrist  pin,  as  shown  at  R. 

It  is  necessary  to  keep  this  entire  system  in  good  order 
and  replace  parts  when  they  become  so  worn  or  loose  as  to 
produce  imperfect  diamonds. 

The  reel  box  should  be  as  completely  enclosed  as  possible 
and  maintained  at  a  sufficiently  high  temperature  to  dry  the 
thread  rapidly.  Steam  pipes  for  drying  should  be  placed  in 
the  bottom  of  the  reel  box  and  it  is  considered  by  some  de- 
sirable to  place  a  steam  pipe  in  the  top  of  the  box  near  the 
front  and  near  the  thread  as  it  enters  the  box. 

Some  raw  silk  skeins  show  a  tendency  in  the  winding 
in  America  to  separate  into  rings  after  a  portion  of  the 
skein  has  been  wound.  It  has  been  suggested  that  this  might 
be  due  to  incomplete  skeins  being  allowed  to  stand  on  the 
reel  and  become  dry  over  night. 

69 


APPENDIX     C 

SUGGESTIONS  ON  REREELING  MACHINE 
CONSTRUCTION  AND  USE 

The  machine  for  rereeling  may  be  made  the  same  as  the 
direct  reeling  machine  but  it  is  possible  to  simplify  it  and  get 
the  same  results. 

The  drawing  (Figure  36)  shows  a  rereeling  machine  in 
the  simplified  form. 


Fig.     36.      METHOD    OF    GEARING    TRAVERSE    AND    REEL    FOR 
REREELING    INTO    STANDARD    AMERICAN    SKEIN 


70 


The  axle  of  the  reel  is  fitted  on  one  end  with  a  small  pul- 
ley on  the  power  shaft  and  drives  the  reel.  On  the  other  end 
is  fastened  the  beveled  gear  E  having  thirteen  teeth,  which 
engages  beveled  gear  G  having  twenty-four  teeth  and  con- 
nected to  crank  K. 

The  rod  T  is  connected  with  bell  crank  S  which  engages 
with  the  traverse  bar  N  by  rod  L. 

The  rereeling  machine  should  have  some  means  for  pre- 
venting the  formation  of  double  ends  in  rereeling  caused  by 
the  broken  thread  from  one  small  reel  becoming  attached  to 
that  of  another  small  reel  and  being  rereeled  with  it  (Figure 
37). 

One  device  suggested  in  connection  with  a  rereeling  ma- 
chine consists  of  partitions  of  thin  boards  separating  the 
bobbins  so  that  if  the  thread  breaks  either  as  it  leaves  the 
small  reel  or  after  it  passes  the  tension  bar  R,  the  loose  end 
cannot  fly  against  the  other  threads.  Any  device  which  will 
accomplish  the  same  result  will  be  satisfactory. 

The  rereeling  should  be  done  at  sufficient  tension  to 
break  the  fine  places  in  the  thread  and  to  form  a  compact 
skein.  (See  last  two  paragraphs  of  Appendix  B.) 


Fig.  37.       REREELING    MACHINE    WITH 
SMALL    REELS    SEPARATED 


71 


PERSONNEL 

of 

Raw  Silk  Classification  Committee 
1915-1921 

D.  E.  DOUTY,  Chairman 
ALBERT  BOSSHARD 
W.  F.  EDWARDS 
J.  E.  HUG* 
JOHN   H.   JEWETT 
CHARLES  MULLER 
GEORGE  A.  POST 
J.  A.  SCHEIBLI  * 
FREDERICK  SCHMUTZ 
WARREN  P.  SEEM 
CHARLES  CHENEY,  ex  officio 
RAMSAY  PEUGNET,  Secretary 

^Members  of  Committee,  1913-1920. 


72 


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